“That voice [of the wines] speaks softly yet also with authority: That flavor and complexity can come from grapes harvested at lower ripeness levels than is the current fashion in Napa Valley and throughout California. Soft, juicy, sumptuous wines with lavish oak are the antithesis of what Khaledi wants. Matthiasson and Seysses are wired to not produce such wines, instead seeking elegance, varietal character unobscured by ripeness and overt oak, and an acid snap that makes for refreshment and compatibility with meals.
It’s an old-school approach to New World wines, and a welcome one."